Head Count: around 500

The Skinny: Located within the "Inner Line" not too far from the Tibetan border, Nako is the first town we encountered after obtaining our inner line permits in Rekong Peo.

What Thar Be: Perched on a dry hill amidst desolate mountains and deep valleys, the ancient village of Nako is barely touched by modern civilization. In a complex trench irrigation system relying on cooperation and trust, crop terraces are tirelessly tended by locals with pickaxes and shovels. Day and night, pickaxes alter the pathways of the water to keep an otherwise dusty landscape lush and green. A couple of old Buddhist gompas overlook the town and many mani stones and stupas litter the area.

Digs: There is only one guest house in Nako, though it looks like this is soon to change. We spent our first night in a storage room with the pickaxes and bags of wheat flour, but moved into an open room at the hotel the next day.

Vittles: The hotel's small restaurant serves rice and dhal every day for next to nothing -- only the daily vegetable varies. The food, though a bit tedious, is very tasty and filling.

Hooch Factor: The man behind the counter at the only store in Nako supplied us with some whiskey at just the right price--50R for 180 ml.

Navigability: Once again, driving through Nako would be unheard of (and quite rude) since this village is tiny and made up of small footpaths and alleyways. Walking around the countryside is fun and interesting, and the local farmers are more than friendly.

Sliding In and Out: The road from Nako to Tabo is steep, dusty, and subject to landslides which can block the road for days--perhaps the worst road we've seen yet. The infamous Malling Slide just north of Nako had completely covered the road when we reached it, but instead of turning back we decided to push the bikes OVER it, which somehow worked.