Head Count:

The Skinny: Leh is the capital of the province of Ladakh, which is politicaly within the jurisdiction of Jammu and Kashmir, but persuing independence due to its differences in culture, religion, and geography from the rest of J/K.

What Thar Be: There is an old palace perched on a rock cliff overlooking the town of Leh, and about a dozen impressive Buddhist monasteries and forts surrounding the town built centuries ago.

Digs: We stayed at the Lung Snon Guest House, upon the recommendation of some travelers we met on the highway, The family-run place is quiet, friendly, and something of a hub for travelers interested in taking part while in Leh. The momma here runs the Women's Alliance of Ladakh, and is also involved in a farm volunteer program. Many opportunities to learn and participate await tourists interested in issues like globalization, eco-tourism, and sustainable growth.

Vittles: The family at the Lung Snon cook dinners every night for 50R a person, a little more than we usually spend but so so so worth it. Some of the best and most interesting food we've enjoyed. Hoooooooome-made.

Hooch Factor: Everything's available here, as it's a pretty big city.

Navigability: Leh has pretty nice roads, with the regular amount of Indian cow and pedestrian traffic.

Sliding In and Out: The roads in this area are in pretty good shape due the military action here. The mountain scenery is continually mind-blowing.