We packed, ate, and rode. On to more relaxing places, we hoped. After 5 hours on a beautiful road following a river and splitting bright green mountains, we arrived in a small tourist city called Kausani. We found a really quiet place to stay a couple of kilometers out of town which was actually a two room apartment with small kitchen-like-thing for Rps 100 ($2.00) per night split three ways. A German writer had just moved out after a year there, and actually a French man named Bernard was staying next door--in the process of writing a book. The porch (which was the best feature of the place) faced north and when the weather was clear provided us with fancy views of the Himalayan range. We spent 7 days here just chillin’, doing some work, hiking, etc. It was very nice and quite, but after the 7 days we were ready to boogie. Due to the monsoon rains that kept us inside for much of the time, we decided to start heading up to Ladakh sooner than planned. Our next stop will be Dehra Dun, where we will try to upload and stock up on supplies we’ll need for the long haul to Ladakh. Onward and upward.
Chapter June 28 "From the land of Holy Waters" or " What'll ya have?"
We loaded, locked, and drove. The roads we were to encounter for the next two days were unbelievable. The initial riding out of Kausani was slow going, as we only managed to make 44 km (25mi) in just over two hours along switch back after switch back. The riding took us through some beautiful pine forests reminiscent of northern Idaho. After about 3 and half-hours, we descended into the Alaknanda river valley. For the rest of the 230 km, we would follow the banks of the Alaknanda along some of the most spectacular scenery we’ve encountered yet. Driving further east, we began to feel and see the religious significance of this area to Hindus and Sikhs alike. Droves of saffron-turbanned Sikhs swarmed the highway on scooters, motorcycles, cars, and bikes on their way to pilgrimage sites. Along with them were Tata SUV’s packed to the windows with Hindus also seeking a retreat in the mountains or on their way to the numerous holy pilgrimage sites in Uttaranchal. Lining the roads were the holy Sadhus; bearded, almost naked ascetics who have given up their possessions in search of enlightenment, walking to various temples and holy sites. Between the people, temples, and mind-blowing scenery, we found ourselves overwhelmed with visual and sensory input. We made a quick run through Rishikesh, and made the last 40 km into Dehra Dun, singing "Dear Prudence" the whole way. Arriving tired and hungry, we had problems finding a place suitable to our budget. I happened to walk into an internet café, ask the owner about how much it was to e-mail, and before we knew it, we were heading off to his place to stay for Rps. 50 per night plus breakfast. His name was Sanjeev ( and still is) ….. and for the next 8 days we would end up spending lots of time with him seeing various parts of Dehra Dun. It was good luck to meet him, and this turned out to be one of those places where things just kind of happen. Actually things are still happening, as we are still here and I’m writing from Sanjeev’s house. We plan to upload tomorrow morning and, per usual, I am behind schedule. So, what’s next for our fearless heroes? We are heading off in a couple of days to make the long journey up to Ladkah. First, however, we will head into the remote eastern reaches of Himachal Pradesh. The road is called the "Old Hindustan-Tibetan Highway", and supposedly sections of it used to be part of the ancient "Silk Road" from Asia to the Middle East and Europe. We have to try and get "Inner Line" permits, due to it being a sensitive area very close to Tibet (China). We’ll then head north into Ladakh and attempt to cross the Second Highest Motorable road in the world, with a top altitude of 18,000 ft!!! If we make that, we will then try to head north of Leh and cross over the Highest Motorable road in the world, at 18,360ft!!! Will the Enfield’s (and us for that matter) be able to breathe at that kind of height? Will we be burned to a crisp by the powerful UV rays put out by our almighty Sun? Will there be petrol stations? Will our brave explorers ever make it alive to send you all another exciting update? Who knows? But we’ll let you know soon. Or not! Wish us luck. Or not!
