Head Count: very very few

The Skinny: Sarahan is the small mountain village home to the goddess Kali. It's an easy 17 kilometres off the main highway and well worth a little detour.

What Thar Be: Thar be a beautiful wooden temple constructed many centuries ago in honor of Kali, and still a draw for Indian and western tourists. Sacrifice platforms next to the temple are now stained only with the blood of animals since the British outlawed human sacrifices here over fifty years ago.

Digs: The Kali temple has an attached guest house overlooking the courhouse and temple complex. Rooms are clean and well-priced at 200R, with dorm beds available for less.

Vittles: There are lots of little local restaurants with cheap and tasty momos, chowmein, parathas, and chai.

Hooch Factor: Beers are available "to-go" at the pricey tourist hotel on the way into town.

Navigability: There is absolutely no reason to drive within Sarahan since it's so small, and there are lots of cool things to check out in the little lanes on foot. A large, impressive house looms over the town, home to the owner of the local apple groves. A well-kept cricket field sits on a ledge also above town, with stands and a nearby Hindu temple.

Sliding In and Out: The road out of Sarahan is crazy. Blasted out of the sides of cliffs at seemingly impossible angles, we stopped almost dangerously often to marvel at the skill and bravery of Indian roadbuilders.