sometime in early February '01...

Being our first time in India, we wanted to experience first-hand the trials and tribulations of purchasing a motorcyle without any previous know-how. After spending a week visiting several dealers and private sellers and logging hours of fact gathering (prices, ownership transfers, insurance, taxes, parts/servicing availability), we decided to take the safe route.

Enter Lalli Singh--owner and operator of Inder Motors located in the renowned Karol Baugh motorcyle market in New Delhi. We simply felt that his shop was the most organized, clean, and well-run shop in the market. Inder Motor's reputation proceeds them.

Now came our biggest decision (life is tough, isn't it.) Do we get the wimpy 18 horsepower 350cc model or go for the road rippin', rubber burnin' 22 (count 'em 22) Clydesdale horses 500cc model? Decisions, decisions. For a breakdown of the differences in models, check back later in the maintaining section.

Our decision? Being Americans, we just couldn't turn down the bigger bike: the Bullet 500cc. Go big or go to back to Europe! (Just joking here folks, except for you--Frenchie!)

Seriously, though, we really liked the extra power and feel of the 500cc model. What sealed the deal, actually, was our planned route. We wanted to spend a good bit of our trip in the northern reaches of India, in the biggest of the big: the Himilaya mountain region. We figured the extra horsepower would help in hills and over mountain passes. So we done gone and did it! We'll let you know how it works out after our mission is completed.

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mid September '01...

Mission completed. Seven months and over 10,000 km later, we've asked ourselves what we would do differently next time.

Initially we were quite worried about who to buy from, but now we would feel more confident in shopping around and even buying a bike privately for quitea bit less money. When buying your bike, just use common sense--take a good look at the bike, walk around it, use the force, "trust your feelings, Luke..." Does it start easily, run and sound smooth? Does is look well-maintained? Sit on the bike and assess whether the seat (height, cushioning, positioning) and handlebars are comfortable--you'll be sitting here for very long periods if you buy it. Take it for a spin--does it accelerate smoothly, have good power, shift cleanly with no unusual noises? Realizing, of course, that every Bullet has its own share of unusual noises that can be harmless--listen for the big stuff that makes you cringe. Most importantly, if it looks like it's been well-maintained, runs well, and gives you a good feeling, that'll do ya. Almost everything else can be fixed at minimal cost. The money you save buying privately, you can sink into the bike later however you want.

We feel good about our decision to go with 500cc over 350cc. We feel that the 500cc is much better suited for mountain travel, especially with a back-seat passenger, due to its four extra horsepower. However, do not be misled, the 350 is a very capable bike. We saw many 350s making their way along the same territories we crossed. The majority of mechanics that we dealt with in India felt that without question the 350cc is a more mechanically solid bike, with generally less problems. The 350s we tried out definitely felt solid, with decent acceleration and power. Also, parts for the 350 are bit more common and easier to get hold of, especially in more remote areas, strickly due to the fact that there are many more 350's than 500's on the road. My scrambling around the backalleys of Srinagar for hours searching for a new tappet-adjuster bolt for my 500cc ended in success, but could have stranded me indefinitely. Parts for the 350 were everywhere. But this only happened to me once, and breaking that particular bolt is rather freak accident. Everywhere else we went, we had no problems finding parts for the 500. If driving through the northern mountans again we would stick to the 500, but if the south of India were our course we might consider the 350 because the extra power just isn't necessary. If price is a factor, a good 350 can be had for $200-400 USD less than the 500. All said, however, after 7 months riding a 500, we now have an attachment and famaliarity with the it that would cause us to purchase one again.

Shops in Delh worth a look for buying or renting:

--Inder Motors (Karol Bagh) and Lalli Singh are a class act. Their head mechanic, Allam, is said to be the best Bullet mechanic in Delhi. As we all know, with high class comes high price and they are sunstantially more expensive than other shops. This is still pretty cheap by western standards-- it all depends on your budget. They are overall a pleasure to work with and get to know.

--Madaan Motors (Karol Bagh) has a decent reputation. I met some people, however, who had some problems working with them in their honesty and quality. They are so busy that they may overlook quality for quantity. When dealing with Madaan, be firm, persistent, and stick around to watch them work on your bike to make sure you get what you want. On the other hand, many people I've met have been very happy with Madaan and he is the man to work with if interested in shipping a bike overseas.

---Guderial Motors (Karol Bagh) wins the award for most character. Self-proclaimed "Enfield Engineers", this is the shop to visit for honest and thorough repairs at below average prices. A good place for renting or buying Enfields, they are also able to repair exotic bikes such as BMWs or larger displacement Japanese bikes.

--also worth checking out are Mukesh Motors and Lucky, along the main Karol Bagh road. Their bikes are cheap, but beware of quality.

Places to shop around privately:

The best places to look for private bikes are in the major tourist areas of the Himalayas, Delhi, and Goa. Look on the streets for bikes with "for sale" signs, look on notice boards at guest houses and popular tourist restaurants, and just ask around. In other major cities, just ask around.....Indians love to sell you things and will gladly help you spend your money.

Prices:

At the time of writing, the prices for an Enfield in Karol Bagh in New Delhi were as follows

From a shop:

500cc (fully/partially refurbished mechanically) was between Rps 38,000 to 55,000+ ($800-1200+ USD) . 350cc (fully/partially refurbished mechanically) was between Rps 25,000 to 45,000+ ($500-1000 USD)

Privately:

500cc (as is) we saw going for anywhere between Rps 25,0000 to 45,000 ($500-1000 USD) 350cc (as is) between Rps 16,000 to 42,000 ($400-900 USD)

Keep in mind these prices only represent what we were quoted and what we saw during our travels. As it goes in the world, some of you will get a good deal, some may not. Our advice is just to shop around as much as you can and talk to as many people as you can. Indians love to give you the guilt trip and use pressure tactics to make the quick sale. Just be patient, there are so many Bullets in India, the right one wil surely come your way.

This a good option if your travel time is limited and you just want a bike for a couple of days, weeks, or months. One of the main advantages of renting is not having to deal with buying and selling the bike. You just pick it up, drive it, and then drop it back off. Another advantage is that almost all repairs and/or bike damage from accidents are covered by the shop from which you rented. However, this does little for you immediately in case of a breakdown, as you have to pay on the spot and wait for reimbursement from the shop upon your return. In this case, make sure to save all receipts (make the mechanic write you one) and save any broken parts. Make sure that you have a clear written agreement with your rental shop that specified repairs, accident coverage and insurance are provided and carry copies of all paperwork with you on the road.

The rate for a Bullet (500cc) in Delhi (at the time of writing) hovered around 150-200 USD/month (305cc a bit less) depending on the model and condition of bike, and length of rental. The bikes in Delhi available for monthly rental seemed to be in pretty decent condition. My brother Ryan, who joined us on the road for 2 months, rented from Inder Motors and had no major problems with his machine. Monthly rentals will require copies of your passport, valid international driver's license, a cash deposit (percentage of total rental cost--unsigned traveler's checks OK), and the return leg of your airline ticket out of India. These requirements will obviously vary from shop to shop. Once again, make sure to carry copies of all paperwork with you on the road and double check that your insurance is good for the entire length of your rental. Feel free to contact us with any questions you may have.